How to Become a Better Surfer

Anyone who has had the opportunity to ride a wave knows how incredible the experience is. Whether you tried surfing while on vacation or at a local beach, as a child or an adult, the feeling is exhilirating. The first few waves are some of the most memorable for every surfer, but many people become frustrated when the learning curve steepens after that, unsure of how to progress. Don't give up! There are a few simple steps that will get you from beginner blues to surfing stardom (or something like it).

First, and most important, is time in the water. There are definitely times and places for land-based training, but they must be supplemental, not fundamental. You should be taking any chance you get to spend time surfing. Find a friend who likes to learn new things, drag your significant other along under the pretense of 'spending quality time,' or just try to make friends with some of the familiar faces bobbing in the lineup beside you.

The second step is similar to the first: catch as many waves as possible. As surfing has come more and more into the mainstream media, we are inundated with pictures of muscle-bound surfer dudes carrying miniature looking boards and performing outrageous maneuvers. As tempting as it is to paddle out at your nearest surf spot on the latest and greatest shortboard, considering foregoing the 'cool factor' for a while and trying a longboard. Not only will you have a much easier time finding your balance, the increased surface area will make it easier to paddle faster, allowing for more waves to be ridden. Once you've mastered the art of catching waves, you can consider moving to shorter boards.

That brings us to the more technical side of surfing. When you first learned how to surf, you most likely practiced by either being pushed into or paddling into the white water, that is, the broken part of the wave. While this still provides an enjoyable ride, one of the goals of surfing is to spend time in the curl of an unbroken wave. To do this requires timing.

When you see a wave approaching, try to determine approximately where it is going to break. If you are riding a longboard, you should be sitting between 3-5 meters away from the breaking zone, closer if you are on a shortboard. As the wave nears you, begin to paddle towards the shore, using long, deep strokes rather than short, quick ones. When you feel the power of the wave begin to propel you forward, try to gauge how far up the face of the wave you are. When you reach approximately 3/4 of the way up, or when you can feel the wave generating most of your forward momentum, pop to your feet as quickly as you can.

Hopefully, you will have stood up at the top of an unbroken wave. Once you've figured out the timing required to pop up in the right spot, it will only take a handful more waves until you find yourself trimming down the face of an unbroken wave, enjoying one of the greatest feelings in the world.

Tips

1. Watching others surf is a great way to pick up on the more technical side of surfing. If you are already at the beach you should be in the water practicing, not watching people, so consider purchasing a surf DVD or two. While there are a number of good surf tutorials out there, you may find it more interesting to watch a more high performance surf film where you can see professionals like Kelly Slater and Jack Johnson.

2. Balance improvement products such as the Indo Board are both helpful and fun, especially on days when there are no waves. Improving balance and core strength is important if you want to progress as a surfer and one proven way to do that is through the practice of yoga. Check out the Yoga for Surfers DVD's for surf specific stretches.

3. Don't underestimate the power of the mind. Spending time envisioning yourself catching waves, popping up and riding down the face can increase your confidence as well as help you remember how the motions felt the last time you were in the water.

4. Most importantly, don't forget to have fun. Surfing is many things to many people but at the end of the day, it is supposed to be fun for everyone. Be respectful and courteous of the people surfing around you and enjoy your time on the water! Aloha.